Every fashion label keen to revisit that classic spring theme of flora and fauna runs the risk of Miranda Priestly-esque ire: “Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking” (likewise, so does anybody making a Devil Wears Prada reference in a fashion week review. Meta). But Burberry Prorsum and Giles Deacon have nothing to fear, for their invigorating use of nature’s design this season is every bit as fresh as the living things they are inspired by.
Of all the collections, Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum stood out as the quintessential costume de rigueur for the bohemian, the sort that exists to inspire and lives very much in a world devoted to the pursuit of pleasure, leisure, and intellectual acquisition. ”The Bloomsbury Girls”, sylph-like visions swathed in sheer lace, organdy, crepe, floated down the catwalk looking like the sort of fragile, fairy-like muse that would have captured the imagination of a twentieth-century poet or artist when she inadvertently drifted into his sight while taking an absent-minded stroll in the gardens of Bloomsbury Square.
Variations of the same style remained highly individual and wildly different with layers that offered a treasure trove of textures and colours to mix and match with. Certainly, this captures the very laissez faire essence of the bohemian muse, who dreamily rises from her repose and slips languidly into one of the many vintage dresses (passed down from her grandmother, slightly faded but nonetheless beautiful) and shawls (collected from her travels) draped around her room before flitting away to wherever her fancy takes her. I certainly see Jessa from Girls, in this collection, and while one cannot buy the inimitable spirit of la boheme one can certainly buy the look thanks to Burberry Prorsum.
While the Bloomsbury fairy is draped in Burberry’s flimsy confections of silk daubed with gentler colours, her rock-and-roll sister is moody and dark in Giles Deacon.
Giles Deacon presented a collection also inspired by God’s creatures. Less ethereal than the wood nymphs of Burberry, his recurring motifs of thorns, horn beetles, and hummingbirds were a slightly more cruel interpretation of natural beauty without deviating far from his usual dark, gothic, and macabre aesthetic.
Any lover of flora and fauna, or those seeking to wear Spring’s florals with a twist would do well to seek Burberry Prorsum’s bohemian blooms or Giles Deacon’s dark nature. Personally, I see them as two sides of the same coin, like the two faces of the moon as it shifts from light to dark.
All photos courtesy of Style.com